Don't Panic & Swear Off Your Gel Manis In The US Just Yet

Gel nail polish became everyone's go-to for manicures and pedicures years ago, replacing traditional nail polishes that needed several coats for a smooth finish. Gel nail polish gives you a glossy finish that dries quickly when the chemicals bond together in UV light. Gel polish also protects your nails under the strong layer of bonded chemicals.

But the European Union (EU) just banned one of the chemicals in gel nail polish, trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide (TPO), because it has the potential to cause cancer or infertility in lab animals. Salons and stores across the EU have been ordered to pull these polishes from their shelves, and they also can't give away or resell these gel nail polishes anywhere in the EU. Many cosmetics companies in the EU have already shifted to TPO-free formulas in anticipation of the ban.

In the U.S., though, salons and stores that sell gel polish with TPO aren't affected. Health and Human Services Secretary Robert F. Kennedy Jr. recently moved for the Food and Drug Administration to phase out synthetic food dyes such as Red No. 3, but there are no current plans to ban TPO here (per Newsweek). That doesn't necessarily mean your gel manicures are risk-free, however.

TPO is added to gel nail polish to help the product harden under UV light. It's popular because it works quickly, gives a smooth finish, and resists yellowing (per Hona). The EU has classified TPO as a Category 1B chemical, meaning it could be "carcinogenic, mutagenic, or toxic to reproduction," though more research is still needed, according to the Health Products Regulatory Authority.

So far, research on TPO's effects is limited. It's also used in some dental adhesives, and a 2018 study in Dental Materials tested how TPO affects human cells in the lab. The study found TPO to be highly toxic to cells, but it didn't cause DNA damage or oxidative stress. Interestingly, researchers have also studied TPO for its possible anticancer potential. Because TPO is highly reactive under light, a 2022 study in Photochemical and Photobiological Sciences found that it generates free radicals when exposed to blue/violet LED light. These free radicals slowed the growth and even killed breast cancer cells.

Even without TPO, gel manicures may carry other risks, according to Vice. The UV light needed to cure gel polish can raise the risk of skin cancer and speed up aging of the skin on your hands. Leaving gel polish on too long can also increase your chances of developing a bacterial infection (read why you should never pick off your nail polish).